Every skein of yarn hides a small secret — and I don’t mean just the potential future project curled up inside. I mean the label, the paper band wrapped around the yarn. To beginners it might look unimportant, but anyone who crochets regularly knows it’s packed with crucial information that helps you plan and execute your projects.
So what exactly can you find on a yarn label? And why is it worth a look before you even cast on your first stitch? Read on!
1. Manufacturer name and yarn line name
That’s the first thing that catches your eye. The label always shows the company name (e.g. YarnArt, Drops, Scheepjes, Himalaya) and the specific yarn line, e.g. Merino Gold, Jeans, Safran. Remembering these details makes it easier to find the same yarn the next time you shop — especially if the project turns out well and you want to remake it in other colours.
2. Fiber composition — what is this yarn made of?
Fiber content is absolutely fundamental. On the label you’ll see whether the yarn is, for example:
- 100% wool (e.g. merino, alpaca),
- 100% cotton,
- a blend (e.g. 50% acrylic, 50% cotton),
- synthetic fibers (acrylic, polyester, polyamide),
- plant fibers (linen, bamboo, hemp),
- luxury additions (e.g. silk, cashmere, mohair).
Composition affects many of a yarn’s qualities: warmth, elasticity, softness, sheen, durability, and how you wash it. It’s worth reading carefully so you can match the yarn to the specific project — one thing works for a winter sweater, another for a summer top.
3. Weight and yardage of the skein
This is one of the most important technical bits: e.g. 50 g / 120 m or 100 g / 240 m.
What does it mean? The skein weighs 50 or 100 grams, and the meters tell you how long the thread inside is. With this you can easily:
- work out how many skeins you need for a project (most patterns state the required amount in meters),
- compare yarns with each other,
- pick a substitute with a similar weight and length.
4. Recommended needle and hook size
Typically the label shows icons of needles and/or a hook with a suggested size, e.g.:
- Needles: 3.5–4.5 mm
- Hook: 4 mm
These are guideline values — you can adjust them to your tension (tight, loose) or the effect you’re after. Thinner needles/hook give a denser fabric; thicker ones give a softer, more open texture.
5. Gauge
This is very important for anyone making garments or larger projects. It’s usually given as:
10 × 10 cm = 22 stitches × 30 rows (example)
Which means: if you use the recommended needles/hook and make a 10×10 cm square, you should get roughly that many stitches and rows. With this information you can check whether your tension matches the pattern — and whether the finished garment is going to come out too big or too small.
6. Washing and care instructions
Usually shown using international symbols. There you’ll find answers to questions like:
- Can the yarn go in the washing machine?
- At what temperature?
- Can it be ironed?
- Is it tumble-dryer safe?
- How should it be dried?
This matters especially for pieces that will see heavy use — blankets, baby clothes, wool sweaters.
7. Colour number and dye lot (batch)
Yarn colours are dyed in batches — even if skeins share the same colour number (e.g. 103), two different dye lots can look slightly different in tone. That’s why the label also lists the dye lot, e.g.:
- Colour: 103
- Lot: 928471
My advice: if you’re making a bigger project, buy all the skeins from the same dye lot at once!
8. Country of origin and certifications
Not all, but more and more yarns include additional info:
- Made in Turkey, Made in Italy — country of manufacture,
- OEKO-TEX®, GOTS, mulesing free — certifications indicating the yarn is safe, eco-friendly, and/or ethically sourced.
This matters especially if you want to create eco-friendly products or things meant for children.
Summary
Although the label may look like just a decoration on the skein, it’s actually a source of the most important technical and practical information. So before you rip it off and throw it away, read it carefully. It’s also worth keeping the label from a given project — if a year later you decide to add mittens to match your scarf, you’ll know exactly what yarn to look for.
Do you have favourite yarns and keep a collection of labels? Or turn them into your own project notebook? Let me know in the comments!
To download a printable label guide, click the button below:
